The Treks

Welcome to the latest information on my treks and explorations of the remote places of Asia. These treks are featured on the website project-himalaya.com, and the information here is a supplement to everything you find on there.

More information about the treks that Kim, Jamie and myself run can be found on project-himalaya.com

Enjoy!

Picture; Jeff and Erin enjoying an afternoon picking apricots in Wanla, Ladakh.

First Up...Nanda Devi, a wonderful journey through stunning autumn India to the Mythical peak that challenged all the resources of Bill Tilman and Eric Shipton on their 30s explorations.

Nanda Devi Pilgrimage

"An audience with the sisters of Kumaon"Bob Rosenbaum on the 05' recce trip
The sacred peaks of Nanda Devi 7816m and Nanda Devi East 7434m cleave the skies in a remote corner of the Indian Himalaya, locked in a sisterly embrace on the border between the ancient kingdoms of Kumaon and Garwhal in the state of Uttaranchal. 2006 is the 70th anniversary of the first ascent of this mythical peak, the culmination of probably one of the last great epics of mountain exploration. This, then, is a good year to launch our treks here.
Our trek takes us from narrow gorges with rivers thundering far below, over snow bridges to high pastures, and the stone villages that were the homes of the pundits, the first real geographers of Tibet. And then to the peaks; we cross glaciers and crevasse fields to stunning views of the sisters, and their friends, Nanda Kot and Kat.
For lovers of the remote, and those wanting to linger and learn, rather then just pass through, this trek has it all.

The Trek
We split the journey up to this remote corner of India into two days; an overnight train to Kathgodam (first class!), then a night in one of the best hotels in Nanital; the next day we make the stunning drive to Munsiari. The early days of the trek are between three and five hours as we make elevation along the Gauri Gangar, then longer as we explore the side valleys and base camps. The trek is a winning combination of wonderful green valleys, and remote pastures and glaciers; and those views!
October 31st - arrive Delhi
Joel will be at the airport to meet you, look for the Project-Himalaya sign. We drive to our hotel in Parhar Gang, the main bazaar of Delhi, and over dinner, discuss gear and our adventure.
November 1st - Train or jeep to Nanital 1938m
Depending on the size of the group we may take an overnight train, a day train, or a jeep. But by evening we are in the Grand Hotel, at the lakeside resort of Nanital at 1938m, a popular Indian holiday town.
2nd - Drive to Munsiari 2133m
On the road by 5am, and by 9am we will be breakfasting on parantha and curd high in the hills. The road is incredible, through forested hillsides and with distant mountain views. We arrive at our guesthouse at the end-of-the-universe feeling town of Munsiari, and a leisurely dinner. This is the end; of the beginning!
3rd - Trek to Lilam 1830m
At last - on the trail. A thirty minute drive takes us to the road head, where we meet our mixed team of horses and porters. A simple three hour walk today, but in these early days it is vital to cover up from the sun and drink lots of water: at least three litres a day. And your trek routine begins - you must carry snacks, water, sunblock, warm and windproof layers, and gloves and hat. Your passport at all times for checkpoints, and of course, loose cahnge for those trailside chai stops.
Our close companion for the next few days is the Gauri Ganga (river), and we descend to 1500m to follow it through hamlets. This section is low, and can be hot. An hour in the trail carves into the hillside, the first welcome shade. Then we climb gently to camp, and lunch, at Lilam, a scattering of houses on a hillside. Here you meet your home (s) for the next few weeks, your lightweight but roomy tent, and our dining tent.
4th - Trek to Bugdiar 2500m
After completing formalities at the ITBP checkpoint we climb to nearly 2000m on the wide and well made trails that reflect India and China's recent good relations; the border is open for limited trade. As we climb, take time to scan the opposite hillside. Breakfast smoke marks many small dwellings set among terraces carved out on the slopes, so reminiscent of the hills of Nepal. In Autumn and late spring waterfalls arc out into incredible drops. After two hours of climbing with the roar of the Gauri in our ears, a welcome chai stall, hot and sweet in the shade. Then we ascend through galleries into woodland. Walk quietly and a sudden crashing will be a disturbed troop of Langur monkeys. We lunch at the tiny Paryatak tea house set into a cliff, then ascend through a spectacular water carved gorge to our camp at a river junction.
5th - Trek Rialkot 3000m
Up...on a well built trail to the clearing of shepherd camps at 2755m, with stunning high crags all around. Now the altitude will make itself felt, so go slow and drink lots of water. In spring the trail blazed by shepherds en route to the high pastures lead over snow bridges. In October a few remain, like huge grounded icebergs. Now we see the first snow peaks ahead, and we pass wayside shrines to the mountaintop gods. After three hours of climbing we see a seemingly insane trail high above; yes, up there! This tops out to our first view of the 7000m snow peaks ahead, then a welcome descent to lunch. After this we have some gentle contouring on flood churned trails, and then we see the hilltop fort of Rialkot silhouetted against the peaks. Our camp, which we reach after a five hour day, is in the pastures beneath.
6th - Trek to Martoli 3374m
A lazy day. The sun hits our camp late, and as we have a 200m ascent, but a two hour walk, we can linger over our fresh coffee and eggs as the sun dries the dew on our tents. Then a steep climb past crashing rainbow hued waterfalls to the deserted old trade post of Rialkot, before taking the left fork to the plateau on which Martoli sits at 3374m. This was once a vibrant trade post; now it sits patiently waiting for the trade to resume. Down valley we can see 5678m Shalung Dhura and 5000m Thamkau; our way leads west to the base of Nanda Devi east, peeking down valley above us.
7th - Trek to Lwanl 3600m
Another easy day. Our destination, Lwanl, was not named by some wandering Welshman; the local dialect could be - even Lobsang took a while to master it! We climb first to the temple to Devi, where we leave a bell as an offering, and then we move around wooded hillsides to the river junction of Lwanl, a small - deserted - settlement. The villagers come up in June through October. The headman of this village above the Shalung Gad made many journeys to Tibet as a youngster, when the current Dalai Lama was still in China. He stays here well into winter and makes regular trips to Nanda Devi East Base camp to collect medicinal herbs. The peak that we see to our South is 6881m Nanda Kot, with it's neighbors, Nanda Bhanar and Khani.
8th - Trek to Nanda Kot base camp 4100m
trail, and there is a reason we leave our horse team behind here. The trail takes care and attention, and the calf high grass makes it harder. The trail changes from year to year, and it seems to meander everywhere, so stay together, and follow Lobsang! An hour or so in we see the distant snowy wall that is the east wall of the legendary Nanda Devi sanctuary. We descend to the river, then climb gradually through the pastures of Nasanpanpatti and Ratangangal. After five hours we diverge from the trail to Nanda Devi base camp on a little used trail into a huge area that is very similar to the Annapurna sanctuary in Nepal. Wide pastures and the distant rumble of glaciers; and rocks falling as blue sheep scramble away. We camp, after six hours of walking, in a sheltered clearing at the base of the glaciers that sweep down from Changuch and Nanda Khat.
9th - Trek up valley then to Nanda Devi east BC 4250m
A short hour towards Longstaff's col brings us to the most amazing mountain scenery; we have time to scramble up to 4700m and the views of the 7000m peaks all around. Lunch at camp, then we cross the moraine to Nanda Devi East base camp, another incredible location.
10th - Trek to Lwanl 3600m
The views just get better as we return to our horse camp at Lwanl by a different route. We arrive for our rum ration...we have acclimatized!
11th - Trek to Pachu 3750m
An hour or so brings us to Martoli, then we follow the valley to Pachu, at the entrance to the Pachu Gad, a little visited valley with views of 7074 Tirsul, and Nanda Devi. We camp in the village square, below the headman's house; the discerning trekker will spot small images to Nanda Devi carved over every door.
12th - Trek to high pastures 4300m
The trail traverses high above the Pachu Gad with more lovely views of the sisters, Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi east. Our destination is a series of meadows below the peaks, ripe for exploring and wandering. We should be there after a four to five hour day. Sunsets here are incredible, and snow leopard prints everywhere there is snow.
13th - Trek to Milam
A long but easy day, returning to the main old trade route to Milam, we move at five and will be in camp by three...because we want time to take in the views both up and down valley. Our camp is at Milam, as far as trekkers can go. It is the destination of many trekking groups, despite the fact that the glacier has receded and the views towards Tibet are pretty; but the real draw is Milam itself.
14th - Rest day at Milam 3500m
Milam was home to the legendary Pundits, veterans of the trans - Himalayan trade, recruited by the British survey of India to undertake clandestine survey journeys into Tibet. They risked death in 19th century Tibet, and often had their results and stories discredited until the early twentieth century, when their results were proved to be amazingly accurate. With their notebooks hidden in prayer wheels, they passed as pilgrims as they mapped.
Milam on a sunny spring or autumn afternoon is a place to linger. A maze of long deserted alleyways and sun warmed courtyards that echo with ancient footsteps. Every corner seems to have something for the contemplative eye - a flagstone lined patio shaded by willows; ornately carved window and door frames with the Goddess Devi on most of them, and oil cans converted into flower pots among sun bleached sheep horns.
Today you can take an excursion up valley to the giants; or sit over a long lunch in one of the courtyards and commune with the spirits of Nain Singh and the pundits...
15th - Trek to Bugdiar 2500m
Down, and down, and down. Away from the border of Tibet to the humid valleys. We leave at six, and arrive at four, on our return journey.
16th - Trek to Munsiari 2133m
A long day, the only real one on the trip...but cold beer and hot showers await!
17th - Drive to Nanital
We pull away at five AM, and the journey down country always seems to be the mythical first morning of creation; wind down the windows and smell the trees...and by three, Nanital.
18th - Drive Delhi
Back to Delhi, a long drive so an early start.
19th - Depart
To the airport and goodbye (for now).

And Then to Sikkim...

Hidden Himalaya - Sikkim - India

At the far end of the Himalaya from our summer trekking routes in Ladakh lies Sikkim, a former independent kingdom which has only been part of India since 1975. Sandwiched between Nepal, Tibet, and Bhutan, its history and people, like all the Himalayan Kingdoms we visit, has a variety of cultures and ethnic groups which are a result of its position on both trade and pilgrimage routes. This short but splendid trek is a great combination of the culture, demanding trekking, and awesome views.

The Trek
Sunday 19 November 2006 - Day 1 - Arrive Delhi
Day 2 - Fly to Bagdogra and drive to Gangtok
Our flight this morning heads north and then turns to fly parallel with the Himalayan barrier. Nanda Devi, Annapurna, Everest and Makalu are among the peaks we see. After 90 minutes in the air, we touch down in the cooler air of Bagdogra, where we have an early lunch and take a five hour drive - in easy stages - to our hotel in Gangtok, the capital of modern Sikkim.
Day 3 - Drive to Lachun 2600m
A four to five hour drive, depending on road conditions.
Day 4 - Trek to Tshoka 3000m
The first day is always the toughest, and today we have a 1000m climb, some of it on trails slippery if it has been raining, some of it on staircases. We descend to cross the Prek Chu river at Bakhim, then climb slowly to end our day in the small clearing in the forest that Tshoka.
Day 5- Trek to Dzongri Meadows 4020m
More forest, and more up, as we move through thick rhododendron growth, following the Kabur ridge towards our camp at Dzongri. And everybody feels the elevation today! Dzongri itself is a campsite with a bunkroom for trekkers, that sits on a wooded plateau with incredible views of Kanchenjunga, and the groups of Kabru and Rahtong.
Day 6 - Rest at Dzongri 4020m
Here we spend a day just getting used to the altitude. Relax, take in the views, and enjoy the peace of this scenic camp. The active can make an early start for a climb to Dabla Khang, a local hilltop, for the sunrise views.
Day 7 - Trek to Thangshing 3780m
A short stage of four hours walking today, but at elevation this is enough. We cross alpine meadows where yaks graze, crossing the Prek Chu and climbing briefly to our camp at Thangshing. And all accompanied by the best Himalayan views! Note we sleep at a lower elevation then last night.
Day 8 - Trek to Onglakthang 4175
After three nights around 4000m, we move up - a little! We have the option of a four or eight hour day today. Which we do depends on how well we have acclimatized. We follow the Prek Chu to Lambi, a glacial lake at 4000m (where we have the option to camp) and then pass through glacial terrain to the snout of the Onglakthang glacier where we camp.
Day 9 - Trek to Goecha la and Thangshing 3780
Away by 4 am as we have a longish day, climbing steeply to Jemathang camp and then on, to hopefully reach the crest of the pass by sunrise. The pass is marked as just on 5000m, and you will feel the elevation as we ascend, but the view from the top is superb; the east face of Kanchenjunga, Sinolchuli, and Jannu glittering in the dawn. We have snacks and hot drinks, string our prayer flags, and head for camp at the much lower elevation of Thangshing. A real trekking day!
Day 10 - Trek to Chamrey 4100m
We only backtrack as far as Thangshing, and then take a different route back; climbing for more views to Lam Pokhari, then ridge walking to our camp at Chamrey.
Day 11 - Trek to Lapdang 3200m
We lose over 1000m of elevation today, back in the tree line with the green of Sikkim all around us! A long day, but we are at lower elevation...so rum is possible!
Day 12- Drive to Gangtok
A busy day... we drive to Tashiding Gompa and the old Bon monastery at Kewzing, and finally we arrive at the capital of Sikkim, Gangtok, and our hotel for that post trek shower.

Day 13 - To Delhi
Day 14 - 2nd December 2006 - Trip finish